The cruise *was* wonderful, despite the erratic Internet access. The weather was unusually good — a few days of overcast with bits of drizzle, but also several days of blue skies and sunshine; even the locals in Ketchikan mentioned how lucky we were to have such good weather.
We took a helicopter ride to stand on the Mendenhall Glacier, north of Juneau; took a train ride from Skagway to Grant Pass (part way to the Klondike gold rush fields of 1897 or so); saw the glaciers sliding into Glacier Bay National Park; and saw the Totem Pole park outside of Ketchikan.
Juneau has to be the most unprepossessing city I’ve ever seen that happens to be a state capital. Current political implications unavoidable…
Still several hundred e-mails behind; will be catching up with the website over the next week or so.